Coop Group Reunites in Cartagena

By Bob Archer

Last April the Colombia Cooperatives Group (1964-66) gathered in Cartagena for four days. For many it was the first return since 1966. Los costeños lived up to their reputation for friendliness and hospitality.

Our group came into Colombia at the end of La Violencia in the ’50s and early ’60s. The violence ebbed for many years but began to flow again, continuing to this day—unlike most countries in South America where the violence exhausts itself for extended periods. How to intervene in Colombia to get out of the cycle of violence remains a challenge. But it is important to note that Cartagena does not suffer from the violence.

We gathered at the Capilla Del Mar on Carrera 1a. on the Boca Grande beach (one of our hotels for the upcoming Friends of Colombia
Conference). One of the suites became the centro comunal for catching up, singing, reintroduction to Aguila, Costeña, Club Colombia, and the products of Caldas.

A full day was spent talking and passing the talking stick, a tradition that gives the floor to the holder for as long as desired.

The Old Town looks great. Not overly commercial, not overly preserved.
Only white paint was allowed in the ’60s, but now pastel and earth colors are widespread, based on Colonial period research.

Our first night we had a light dinner outdoors in the “Botero Plaza” (Plaza Santo Domingo), with its Botero reclining nude sculpture and looming church. We hired our own open-sided chiva bus for a night tour. It came with a band, personal rum bottles, cokes, and ice buckets.

Cartagena is especially beautiful at night. The daytime sun is brilliant, sometimes harsh, and shows the city’s flaws. Our able young guides got things started with a dance contest to determine which row had the best dancers.

Cartagena restaurants are numerous and memorable. The remarkable Club de Pesca continues to operate on the harbor with a view that is unmatched. Santíssimo in Old Town hosted all of us with cordiality and superb food.

Special mention goes to Jerry Estruth's discovery of Fondo Antioqueño, about four blocks from the Capilla Del Mar. I recommend a stop at a Pan de Bono to choose from 16 tropical fruits for a large fresh iced smoothie ($1.25) and warm pan de bono.

Several of us made a barrio visit, arranged by Bill and Shirley McGrath through Helene Dudley of RPCVs of South Florida. We met with a group of women who are candidates for micro-loans for their small businesses selling fruits, vegetables, and crafts.

As a result of the visit, our group will finance the next round of loans to be extended through the good work of the RPCV-South Florida group.

I won’t be able to attend the February 2008 Friends of Colombia gathering in Cartagena. I know when it rolls around I will be kicking myself.
There is, truly, only one Cartagena. Only one Colombia. Go if you can.